Welcome to the Heart of Old Shanghai
Hidden among the skyscrapers and neon lights, Shanghai’s Shikumen (stone-gate houses) and narrow longtang lanes preserve the city’s most authentic spirit.
These charming neighborhoods are where East meets West — where history whispers through weathered walls, and the aroma of breakfast noodles fills the morning air.
A stroll through these lanes is not just sightseeing — it’s time travel into the daily life of generations of Shanghainese.
A Walk Through Time: The Story of Shikumen
Born in the mid-19th century, Shikumen were built to house the city’s growing population after Shanghai opened as a port. Their design blends traditional Chinese courtyards with Western-style brick façades, creating a uniquely Shanghai look.
Walk down the narrow lanes, and you’ll notice:
- Stone gate entrances with black lacquered doors — symbols of strength and dignity.
- Carved lintels mixing Chinese motifs with European patterns.
- Compact courtyards that balance privacy and community.
Over the decades, Shikumen evolved — from early spacious homes for big families to later, denser “new-style” houses for smaller households. Today, some have become trendy cafés, art studios, and boutique hotels, while others still host everyday life.
Famous preserved areas include:
- Xintiandi – beautifully restored, perfect for dining and people-watching.
- Tianzifang – a maze of creative shops and cafés.
- Bugaoli (Jingan District) – one of the few still-lived-in Shikumen communities.
Life Between the Lanes
Life in the lanes was — and still is — the heartbeat of Shanghai. Here, neighbors chat over laundry lines, vendors call out their wares, and children play under hanging bamboo poles.
A typical longtang community once shared:
- Common kitchens and bathrooms — fostering close relationships.
- Lively gossip corners — where news traveled faster than the radio.
- Tiny convenience stalls selling everything from soy sauce to slippers.
Though modern high-rises have replaced many Shikumen, this lifestyle — friendly, practical, and full of warmth — continues to shape the Shanghainese spirit: independent, open-minded, and adaptable.
Hai Pai Spirit: The Soul of the City
Shanghai’s Hai Pai (海派) culture — literally “Shanghai Style” — was born in these neighborhoods. It represents openness, creativity, and a mix of East and West.
In Shikumen communities, residents embraced both traditional Chinese values and Western modernity: drinking morning soy milk, then reading an English newspaper; celebrating Lunar New Year and Christmas alike.
This blend created a unique personality — elegant yet practical, curious yet grounded — that defines Shanghai to this day.
Experience It Yourself
If you want to feel old Shanghai up close, here’s how to do it:
🏠 Must-Visit Shikumen Neighborhoods
- Xintiandi (新天地) – beautifully renovated, great for photos and cafés.
- Tianzifang (田子坊) – narrow alleys filled with local art, snacks, and souvenirs.
- Yuyuan Road & Fuxing Road – quieter, more authentic residential lanes.
☕ What to Do
- Have breakfast in a local eatery — try shengjianbao (pan-fried buns).
- Talk to residents — many love sharing stories about the old days.
- Join a guided walking tour — available in English and Mandarin.
- Visit Shikumen Open House Museum (Xintiandi) — a full recreation of 1920s life.
📸 Travel Tips
- Best time to visit: early morning or late afternoon, when light hits the brick walls beautifully.
- Wear comfortable shoes — lanes are narrow and uneven.
- Be respectful — many Shikumen are still people’s homes.
A City of Contrasts
Walking through Shanghai’s Shikumen is like reading the city’s diary — every lane, balcony, and doorway tells a story of transformation.
From quiet courtyards to buzzing shopping streets, Shanghai keeps reinventing itself, yet never forgets where it came from.
So next time you visit, step off the main roads, wander into the lanes, and listen closely — you’ll hear the heartbeat of old Shanghai still echoing through the stone gates.